Gardening at 59 degrees north

North of the Galt

To give it the full title, Galt Skerry Navigation Buoy is the unofficial point past which you are in the Northern Isles. In Orkney this means the isles north of the mainland of Orkne -- all rather confusing to southern dwellers, who can confuse Orkney, Shetland and the Western Isles. Stronsay is definitely “North of the Galt”, being 59 degrees north, and with that comes its own special weather, very long days at midsummer and very long nights at midwinter. Our exposed position and various quirks of sea and wind currents mean we never get hot or cold.

Today it is a mild (for Stronsay) 12 deg C, light cloud, light breeze, beautifully pure air. The sun is illuminating anything green: the fuchsia hedges are full of lovely deep-red lantern flowers, and the air is buzzing with bees enjoying a nectar feast. The forecast says it will stay like this today, but it is not unusual to have three or four seasons in one day. The summers are short, but at their best, they are dazzling. It seems strange to have a discussion about whether it is best to go out with shorts, t-shirt and sandals or storm-force coat, welly boots and life jacket. Perhaps I exaggerate a little.

Garden

As I write, it is mid-growing season, autumn is creeping up too fast and all the jobs that have been put off need attention. My focus is vegetable and soft fruit production: this is where I am at currently in the polytunnels and open ground:

Peas and beans

A tall variety of peas (Alderman) has been prolific again this year in the polytunnel. It is only suitable for growing under cover because the wind can be very strong and would destroy anything with aspirations to be above one metre. Of course, it needs a frame or equivalent to climb up, and I have failed in this respect, so it has collapsed onto the ground, but with a little fiddling, I am picking the pods and, as expected, they are truly delicious.

Because the season is so short and the ground gets cold and unresponsive in winter, I chit some of the peas before planting, meaning, I put them in damp compost for a few days in a warm place until there aresigns of germination before carefully sowing. The success rate is high, partly, I suspect, from reducing mouse thieves who enjoy some free dinners. Sowing a few weeks later, I would sow directly so have a staggered harvest (theoretically).

Outside, I am growing a dwarf variety (Kelvedon Wonder), which seems well-suited to my conditions. The chitted seed had a much better take than those directly sown: I wonder how many mice I am feeding. I have other pests in the form of rogue hens, who love disturbed soil and looking for bugs, and kittens that enjoy playing chasing games through the veg. To help reduce attacks from my wildlife, to increase the soil temperature and reduce the wind, I lay mesh (Environmesh) over the peas until about 10cm tall, giving them a better start in life. Following the removal, I put up sticks to help support them. Although a bit late getting sown, the crop is growing well, with the promise of fattening pods. A few junior customers just love cracking open the pods and eating without any cooking. Certainly that is a memory I have as a child “helping” my mum, sitting on a sunny doorstep, shelling peas and having very few for dinner. A neighbour grows a fantastic crop of peas: his system is to start them early in the greenhouse in pots and then transplant them when about 15cm tall. I thought they would be wrecked by the wind or late frost, but it works for him. I don’t have enough time or time to use that system because I am all the time looking for maximum output: less haste, more speed I heard someone say.

Mange tout or sugar snap peas (Oregon) are growing in same way in the polytunnel. A really strong yield is growing, but my lack of support has made the harvesting problematic. Thankfully the comparatively dry conditions in the polytunnel reduce the rotting of any pods that hit ground zero. Again, they are delicious, and I cook them for only a minute or two, steam or stir frying.

My climbing French beans (Cobra) have not overwhelmed me this year. I started them in small pots in a warm place and, when 15cm tall, transplanted them into the polytunnel. They grow at least 2 metres tall, and in time, I did get string supports in place. The growth is a bit spindly, and the bean yield is low. I think my lack of attention may be to blame; soil drying out and overheating -- it can get up to 40 degrees if the tunnel is shut up and the sun is on full volume. Some of the leaves have curled, and I suspect bugs but couldn’t see any. The good news is that the growth now is better, and they have accepted my apology for the poor treatment. In previous years, I have had excellent crops: sales are popular, so I really will have to make more effort next year. That is something I say to myself a lot -- next year, ahh!

In the past, I have tried growing dwarf French beans outside, but the yield was very poor. Perhaps I will try again. The outside environment is easier to manage so far as heat and water is concerned, but the season is short, and erratic gales can be devastating to tender, wee plants. The advantage of climbing beans is they take up less space on the ground and less backache harvesting -- unless a lack of support leads to a self-inflicted assault course.

Salads

Now, this something where I feel I can wax lyrically. Anyone for a son? I try to have something growing through the 12 months, with variable success. I have tried lots of different plants and will share my experience. My first tip is to get good quality seed, if you can, because poor germination may not be the grower's fault. Obviously taking note of sowing advice is a good start, having a warm place initially and watering to keep moist, without a Tsunami or a Kalahari.

About this time of year is probably the last time to get crops sown before the season begins to close down. I grow most lettuce in modules in a protected environment to ensure a viable plant before transplanting to outside under mesh or in a month into the polytunnel. I favour Chiara for slightly curly leaves, red salad bowl for interesting red-tinged leaves, but the choice is huge. I have adopted a system described by Charles Dowding which involved stripping leaves from the lowest part of the plant and then letting it grow on, gradually getting taller. This process can keep a plant productive for many weeks, eventually finishing when it goes to seed. Mustard and cultivated rocket are fast-acting and more reliable if sown directly -- I find they go to seed quickly otherwise.

Soon I need to be preparing for winter and next spring. I know that seems crazy, but if plants can get established before it gets too dark and cold, some cultivars will grow slowly until spring and then mature quickly. I’ve even been able to take small pickings through the winter some years. The variety I favour is Winter Density, which is a cos type plant, but there are others which I plant out in the polytunnel. Timing is a bit critical because too early is as bad as too late. I usually do 2 or 3 sowings from August until September, hoping one will do well.

A really quick crop for direct sowing is (American) Land Cress. Keep it well watered and thin out so each plant has some space -- the thinning can be eaten as well. It tastes like a mild water cress and is worth the small effort.

Radish and spring onions

I have always struggled with these. Radishes want to grow fast in fertile soil and can be attacked by slugs and wood lice. There are loads of different varieties: I liked Apache, but for some reason, I have Logo this year. Another of life’s mysteries. Charles Dowding is an enthusiast for starting plants off in small modules, so I am trying this with radish: I will report back.

Some years, spring onions have grown well and others seem to be the opposite. This year is a not-year. My favourite was Guardsman sown directly. Plug sowing just didn’t seem to do it. Anyway, it is getting a bit late now: I will try, however, to get some established to grow through the winter and reward me next spring.

Early potatoes

Conditions do not get established early here for potatoes. Traditionally, early potatoes should be planted on Good Friday which is a bit vague since the calendar has many weeks' variance year to year. My yardstick is to start some in the polytunnel when it is beginning to warm. I have tried various systems but come back to ridge growing, which seems to reduce the problem of tubers exposed to the light, which go green and toxic. This year they (Casablanca) are growing well, and I will risk an inspection soon. Four weeks ago, my optimistic view showed nothing to write home about. I grow comfrey which I cut and lay on the soil as a mulch: it breaks down quickly and, I believe, fertilises the soil. Whatever it is, my tatties do grow well and are, of course, totally delicious. I plant more outside so a later crop in September will be ready.

Late / main crop potatoes

Everything I grow is organic, and potatoes seem to taste better without artificial fertiliser, which may be because you get a firmer item. They generally keep well and, although they can (rarely) be affected by late blight, they are never affected by early blight. Some years, lack of water early in the season has caused scab. I’m hoping this will not be a problem this year. Paradoxically, I discovered a long hose pipe and unravelled it ready for a good irrigation: the same night came heavy rain, so no need. For this crop, rubbing out all but three eyes produces bigger potatoes -- good tip but does slow down progress. Over recent years, I have used new ground where nutrients seem to be in good supply, which has helped the crop. Soil quality is definitely important. I will come back to this theme repeatedly.

Weeding

Oh dear, here, I am so far behind. Beam me in some weeding volunteers! The beds are getting choked by weeds and the paths between in places are a disgrace. I used to have 9 hours per week help and now only 3 hours. I realise this is not enough and need to make arrangements.

Onions and garlic

I used to think the best crops were those from the Mediterranean. I have a romantic image of Spanish -- or was it French? -- onion sellers on their bicycles touring the country. Fantasy gets you any place you fancy! Well, both do well here, and I am annually grateful to the crops I get. Onions are started as sets placed in modules of damp compost until roots have developed, therein planted out and generally ignored, although I do put mesh over so the birds do not murder the young shoots. Garlic is most obliging. I take the biggest bulbs from this year and split them into their individual pieces and plant them in October. Early in the year, delicate shoots will appear (note: protect from birds), ignore and, in July, new tasty corms are ready to harvest. Effort is minimal -- perhaps some weeding if you are in the mood, but am I ever? This reminds me that the garlic leaves are beginning to yellow, which means it is time to lift them. More to tell next time… But before I leave onions, I should mention Japanese onions, which I grow from seed, sown anytime soon because they are slow to germinate and need to get established before winter. I have used Keepwell and Shenshyu Yellow, and this year, transplants to the polytunnel have produced a good crop with very little effort. Rather embarrassingly, when I found them, they were covered in weeds. Nice firm bulbs: must do more this year.

Trees

Before I finish, I just want to talk about trees. It is commonly and incorrectly stated that you can’t grow trees in Orkney because of wind, salt and, more relevantly, lack of interest and focus on cows. I was fortunate to have the services of Jenny Larch from Woodland Trust, who agreed that my 0.5 Ha area was a viable although medium risk for a plantation. So, over a couple years, I planted 800 tiny trees and a thousand or so willow cuttings. At first, other than blisters on my hands, there was little see, but now, 5 years in, there are little trees to be seen, some 1.5 metres tall. The biggest problem is gales shortly after the leaves appear, setting back growth severely. This year, we have missed that particular gale, and growth is currently good: I am looking at some at over 2 metres. The wood is mixed deciduous native trees, starting as tiny saplings, protected by tree guides and mulch mats, so tough luck rabbits and Mrs Grass! May be a few more years before the canopy forms and a new ecological system develops. I must remember not to die for a while.

What is this all for?

I have a complex range of motivators. I reject the idea of being overwhelmed. I believe we all can do something, and obviously some things will not work out, but while we strive, we are alive and that is surely enough. I want to encourage you to explore what you can grow, from a small window box to a hundred acre field. The world needs us all to get engaged. It is not someone else’s problem: we can all, in our little way, be the solution and, on the way, have fun, make new friends and eat tasty food. Join me and hundred others as we share our journey.

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